At The Feather House, we believe that pants are the most important element of any outfit. From the iconic bellbottoms of the 1980s to the to the skin-hugging fit slim fit of the early 2000s, pants are a reflection of our times. The pants we choose will affect what top we wear and subsequently our choice of shoes. We believe that good pants make good outfits so let's dive into what makes a good pair of pants.

“I’m saying we pick our pants first and wisely” - The Feather House

High waisted trousers is not a fad

Body proportions, which refer to the length ratio of your torso to your legs, can really influence how your pants fit. Whether your body's natural proportions are a 3:7, 4:6, or 5:5, you can alter this ratio by adjusting the rise of your pants.

Pants rise is the measurement from the waistband to the crotch seam, and it’s something many men often overlook when shopping. The first few things that they probably pay attention to, is the waist and the length, right? Don’t worry, this was me before I learnt about the finer details of classic menswear too. This is understandable, especially since many of us are used to wearing pants lower on our hips due to mainstream retail trends.

Traditionally, pants should sit at the natural waist just above the hip bone. At The Feather House, we advocate this as well to achieve a 40/60 proportion. You could even go up to a 30/70 ratio if that is your preference just like our co-founder Wei Jie. Understanding rise is important because it determines how your pants fit and influences your perceived waistline. High-waisted pants can be especially flattering, giving the illusion of longer legs and creating a more balanced silhouette. This proportion is especially useful for our brothers who are heavier around the mid-section, as it helps streamline the belly with the help of suspenders.

Fit

Fit is all about accentuating your figure while ensuring comfort and functionality. This means that your pants shouldn’t be overly wide, resembling balloons, nor should they be too tight to move freely in. Instead, aim for a gentle taper from the thighs to the hem, with no wrinkles. At The Feather House, we believe in giving life to your garments and they should flow as you move. which means allowing enough space between your pants and legs for comfort and style. To achieve this, it’s essential to have enough space between your pants and legs.

Break

The break of your pants refer to the amount of fabric at the bottom that is touching your shoes. Here are the main types of breaks:

No Break: Trousers with no break have a length that just touches the top of the shoe, exposing a small amount of ankle or sock. The pants are cut short enough to avoid contact with the shoes, creating a clean, tailored look that's ideal for contemporary or formal outfits.

Quarter Break: The fabric just lightly touches the top of the shoe, creating a minimal fold. It’s a versatile option that balances between casual and formal, giving a neat appearance without being overly long.

Half Break: A half break is a modern alternative to a full break. It features some fabric pooling at the top of the shoes with no sock showing at the ankle. Trousers should reach the upper part of the back of the shoe, creating a slight bend at the front. This style provides a bit more length while maintaining comfort.

Full Break: A full break in trousers is characterized by significant fabric pooling and folding at the ankle, with a wider leg opening. This traditional style works well for loose-fitting trousers and those who prefer a classic look. To achieve a full break, trousers should reach at least midway down the back of the shoe, allowing the leg opening to fit around the laces. This relaxed style creates a bunching effect at the shoe and is often associated with more traditional attire.

Ultimately, the break you choose can significantly affect your overall silhouette and how polished your outfit looks. We generally advise no break for a more contemporary look unless the client has a specific look that he is going for.

Pleats

Pleats allow for greater mobility, making it easier to sit or move without feeling constricted. They also add visual interest and can enhance the overall silhouette of the trousers. Depending on your body type, pleats can help create a balanced look, particularly for those with broader hips or thighs. Here’s a breakdown of the different types and their purposes:

Flat Front: Flat front trousers have no folds, offering a sleek and modern silhouette. They’re popular for a more fitted look.

Single Pleat: A single pleat runs down the front of the trouser leg, creating a bit of extra room in the thighs. This style is often favored for a classic, streamlined look.

Double Pleat: This style features two folds on each side, providing even more room and a more relaxed fit. Double pleats are great for comfort and are often associated with more traditional menswear.

In general, pleated trousers can add a touch of sophistication to your outfit, making them a versatile choice for both formal and casual settings! However, pleats on pants require diligent ironing to maintain their shape and appearance. Oh, the price we pay for aesthetics.~

Waistband choices

Waistband styles vary in formality, adjustability, and aesthetics. They can greatly influence the overall look and fit of the trousers, elevating the individuality of the user. Belt loops are unnecessary unless it's a look you prefer.

Extended Flap Waistband: This waistband has an extended flap that overlaps and fastens, providing a secure fit. It creates a tailored and sophisticated appearance that is suitable for both formal and business-casual settings.

Double Buttons Extended Flap: Similar to the extended flap, but with two buttons for added security. This style enhances the structured feel of the trousers.

Single Gurkha: The single-sided version of the Gurkha trousers. This style features a thicker waistband with an adjustable strap and buckle. It offers a unique appearance that stands out. Often used in dressier contexts, it provides comfort and style, allowing for slight adjustments.

Gurkha: Gurkha pants are characterized by a double-pleated front and a high, cummerbund-style waistband with buckle fastenings. Traditionally, they feature a unique buckling system, with one buckle on the left hip and an extension above the fly for the right hip. It's best to avoid wearing Gurkha trousers if you're feeling unwell, especially in the stomach area.

At The Feather House, we cherish the vital role that pants play in shaping our personal style. From high-waisted pants to tailored fits, every detail plays a role in your wardrobe. Good pants serve as the foundation of any great outfit, allowing you to embrace comfort and elegance. So, as you wear your carefully chosen trousers, celebrate the journey of dressing well, one pair at a time. Hope we have helped!

Cheers~

The Feather House

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